Voyageurs: Scott Smith and David Mazurkiewicz

Day 1   Canoe Lake, Potter Creek, Potter Lake

After our traditional early morning breakfast at McDonald’s in Huntsville, we embarked on our journey down highway 60 to the Portage Store access on Canoe Lake. Although considered to be the main corridor and one of the most heavily traveled routes in the park, the Portage Store and Canoe Lake hold a special place in my memory. Mostly because this is where it started for us back in August of 1993 with our first interior camping experience in Algonquin. This inaugural trip was a four day loop covering Canoe Lake, Potter Lake, Tom Thompson, Little Doe Lake, Tepee Lake, Joe Lake and back to Canoe Lake. We learned a lot from that trip, mostly "what not to do".

Photo: Portage Store docks   > > >

Shortly after 8:00 a.m., we were on the dock at the Portage Store. Usually a bustling place in the summer months, the docks were uncharacteristically quiet. I remember the chaos of our first trip here, and the obstacle course of canoes and equipment scattered everywhere. Also having to navigate through a sea of people, most of which appeared more inexperienced than we were. "That used to be us", I would say with a grin to my friend and fellow co-paddler Dave. Many of the camping skills we’ve acquired over the years were simply learned the hard way through trial and error and enduring several hardships.

The morning was crisp and calm. And the day was perfect for traversing Canoe Lake from bottom to top. All of Algonquin’s splendor was reflected on the perfectly still water. It created magnificent images as we navigated up through some of the islands. Passing by many of the cottages and camps on our route, I thought to myself how fortunate it would be for someone to spend their summers here with all the memories to last a lifetime. As we paddled toward the north end of the lake we could see a totem pole rising above the tree line, marking the site of the cairn for Tom Thompson. Since our time was limited we did not stop and decided to press onward.

Photos: Trestle Bridge crossing Potter Creek

As we began to angle NW towards the Potter Creek narrows, I noticed a few rustic cottages along the shoreline and I’m certain that these residences are only accessible by boat. As we entered the narrows we could see more residences on the west bank. It was at this site that a lumber mill used to operate in what was formerly known as the village of Mowat (Named after Sir Oliver Mowat, Premier of Ontario at the time). I always try to picture what it would have been like back then. The history of this particular area is simply fascinating. One structure that’s very intriguing is the old timber railway trestle that spans the narrows. Surprisingly, the many timbers of this structure are in good condition after all these years.

As we paddled north we encountered another railway bridge that was more of a modern structure, and was in very good condition. I’ve read that it was part of the old CN railway, and today it is used as a roadway.

< < <   Photo: Old Parry Sound - Ottawa railway bridge over Potter Creek

Next we approached the 390 m portage to Potter Creek, which is the first of a series of minor portages including a 65 m, 95m and 740 m carry, enroute to Potter Lake. This portion of the creek although shorter, contains several meanders with a few beaver damns thrown in as an inconvenience. It’s easy to run these damns coming downstream but difficult with a loaded canoe paddling into the current.

As we approached the 740 m portage into Potter Lake we almost made a critical error in judgement. After landing on the shore near what we thought was the 740 m portage into Potter and carrying our gear along the pathway about 400 m "all uphill". We suddenly came to the realization that this was unfamiliar territory, having traveled this route on a past trip, so we decided to head back towards the creek. Upon closer observation of the map we actually took the 2020 m portage in error, which took us towards the SE and Tepee Lake. Both Dave and I had a good laugh over it afterwards, however this was an error that could have easily cost us a few hours of travel time.

After collecting ourselves, we managed to find the 740 m portage into Potter Lake. This particular portage is well groomed and easy to negotiate with the majority of the carry on AFA road. I recall our first Algonquin trip and completing this portage in the pouring rain. We literally dragged the canoe on the road with all of our gear inside all the way to Potter Lake. Yes, we were very foolhardy and reckless back then. This portage carries out a little longer than expected near the end as you are looking down into a long narrow "fjord-like" bay of Potter Lake. Just put your head down and you will eventually find the water.

For me, the Potter Lake route is the perfect destination for a shorter weekend trip. Fishing has always proven successful for us on Potter, as it’s yeilded good catches of Lake Trout and Smallmouth Bass. I recall hooking into a nice 3 lb. Smallmouth my very first cast into Potter, caught on a Heddon Tiny Torpedo (topwater) casting to the timber. According to the fishing guide it’s also supposed to have Brook Trout however we have never caught any on this lake.

Our Potter Lake CampsitePotter Lake's North Section

Potter is a beautiful small to medium size lake and it has two distinct sections and a narrows joining the sections together. To the north, the landscape contains more stands of birch than pine and has a marshy area to the NW. To the south, the lake is the exact opposite with beautiful vistas of pine and rolling hills. An AFA road runs along the west shoreline, which I believe is simply a continuation of the road we portaged in on. We quietly slipped into Potter Lake and decided to head for the campsite half way up the lake. This is a strategic location that allows easy access both the N and S sections.

Photo: View of Potter Lake's south half   > > >

Upon our arrival, we quickly set up our camp then prepared to explore the south end of the lake and do some fishing. Unfortunately this excursion did not yield any fish and we decided to pack it in for the night. After a long days work and a campfire to warm us up we turned in at about 10:00 p.m.

Day 2     Potter Lake

We awoke to another cool, crisp morning as the rising sun burnt the final remnants of mist off the lake. After enjoying an instant oatmeal breakfast and collecting our thoughts, we decided to try fishing in the north section of the lake. Our technique involved trolling along the fallen timber scattered along the shoreline to cover as much water as possible. Almost instantly, Dave’s rod doubled over as his Panther Martin spinner was engulfed by a good sized Lake Trout (~4 lbs.) Luckily I was able to land this one, as we never bring a net in order to give the fish a fighting chance. Soon after my rod slammed back with yet another Laker much smaller than Dave’s but full of energy. It was a blast!

"Potter Laker"Dave's big catch

Much to our excitement, this trend continued for most of the morning as we caught several Lakers and we kept a few fish for a much-anticipated Algonquin shore lunch. Traveling back to camp we observed a Deer grazing in the marsh in the NW corner. It was very aware of our presence and would look up at us on occasion to ensure we kept our distance. Never see many Deer in Algonquin, as they do not get along very well with Moose.

< < <   Photo: Dave with another Lake Trout

Upon returning to camp, we began preparing for shore lunch. I cleaned the trout, which is one of my campsite responsibilities and Dave prepared the stove and Cajun mix for the fillets. All the hard work and fresh air fuelled our appetite, but it all paid off in the end as we were both rewarded with a fabulous shore lunch Algonquin style. Cajun trout is definitely one of our signature dishes.

After crashing out (sleeping) for a few hours we awoke to a faint rumbling sound which was getting progressively louder. As we stepped outside the tent we saw a pick up truck headed north on the road towards Brule Lake. Not exactly the type of sound you would expect to hear in the Algonquin interior and it seemed to put a damper a bit on the atmosphere. Perhaps, a parks crew performing routine maintenance on the portages?

Later that afternoon, we tried some fishing on the west shore along the roadway. I decided to try casting towards shore in hopes of catching some of illusive Potter Lake Brook Trout. After an hour of peppering the shore with casts without any success, my rod suddenly exploded with the water at the shore boiling. I thought I hooked into a monster Speck however a few seconds later the fish exploded vertically into the air with a big splash upon hitting the water. I happened to catch a glimpse of the fish’s shiny bronze back and I new instantly that it was a good Smallmouth (~2 lbs.). After a long battle and a quick inspection, the fish was then released. It was shortly after we decided to make the short trip across the lake and back to camp. Night was falling quickly, and after a warm campfire and reflecting on the day’s events we decided to turn in.

Day 3     Potter Lake, Potter Creek, Canoe Lake

After a restless night's sleep, I awoke, knowing that today we would be leaving this magnificent place for yet another year. I felt much satisfaction however, that we made the decision to return to Potter Lake for a rewarding and successful trip. Soon after, we headed out to the north section of the lake for one final attempt at fishing. And Potter Lake did not disappoint, as we picked things up right where we left off on Day 1. Using the same tried and true method of trolling spinners along shore, we were into fish almost immediately. When all was said and done, we managed to catch and release another half dozen good sized Lake Trout (~3 lb. range). I was totally impressed with the quality of Lake Trout we caught, as our last visit was in late summer and we only caught bass.

Scott's LakerCaught and released

It was definitely a good feeling to return to one of the lakes visited on our very first Algonquin trip (1993). I remember using all that substandard camping equipment and even a garbage bag to carry our clothes. I’m sure we lost several pairs of socks on the portages through the gapping holes in the bag. I distinctly recall the double and even triple carries over those portages that would seem to take the entire day. I also vividly remember the hunger we used to experience when our food supplies were depleted early in the trip with nothing substantial to eat. Or the lean times on Little Doe Lake when I resorted to cleaning tiny perch for dinner just to calm our voracious appetites. Truly lessons hard learned, after being humbled by Algonquin many times in the past. To coin a phrase used in an old trip-log by my good friend Dave, "Nature tames man, then destroys him".

I look back fondly on those memories and laugh at our foolishness. Each year we become further removed from those inexperienced kids we once were on the docks at the Portage Store. We were full of energy, short on experience and oblivious to what was in store for us. As a result, we have both gained a deep respect and adoration for the park over the years and we are hooked on Algonquin for life.