Mike's Algonquin 7 Night 2011 Solo Trip

Aug. 18 to Aug 25, 2011 . . . by Mike Burns


Days 1 to 4       ..       Days 5 to 8       ..       All Days


Mike's Algonquin 7 night 2011 solo trip.
Access # 4 Rain Lake.
Aug. 18 to Aug 25 2011.
Total portages: 29.4 km
Total water travel:163.0 km (approx.)
Total distance covered over 192.0 km
-All single carry portages. Pack weight approx. 65lbs and my cedar stripper weighs in at 46lbs, but with extra paddle, bailer and life jacket bumped it up to 50lbs.

Quick overview.
-First time using SPOT, GPS tracking device for family and friends.
-Left Windsor area 7:00am, stopping in Huntsville at Algonquin Outfitters, get fuel, picking up a sub for supper and at the Permit Office at Kearney.
-Ready to leave access Rain Lake at 3:30pm
-Weather is sweet! It’s sunny with temps around 26c with a slight tail wind on Rain Lake.
-Lets go!


DAY 1 - THURSDAY, AUG. 18, 2011.

PORTAGES TO DO: P310, P550, P450, P185, P440, P590, P430, P1030


I had someone take a picture of me before my late start on Rain Lake Access.

Looking back on the Rain Lake at the Island on the portage to Sawyer.

The Sun going down and it gets dark quick on the portages.

I arrived on Misty at 8:22 pm. I paddled across the bay to a Island near the north shore for a campsite. I put up my food bag and hammock in the dark. I was eating my sub I picked up in Huntsville as I was setting up camp. No fire, went straight to bed.

I arrived on Misty at 8:22 pm. I paddled across the bay to an island near the north shore for a campsite. I put up my food bag and hammock in the dark. I was eating the sub I'd picked up in Huntsville as I was setting up camp. No fire, went straight to bed.

I pushed hard to make Misty Lake by dark in about 5 hours. As I made my way, I passed many Boy Scout groups. The sites on Sawyer, Jubilee, Moccasin, Bandit and even one lone site on Wenona Lake were full of people.

I saw one bull moose on Jubilee Lake in the west marsh. A swimmer called out to me to see the moose. I'd missed it as I paddled east. I looked back to see its silhouette with the sun going down. Jubilee had many young groups .. all having a great time.


DAY 2 - FRIDAY, AUG. 19, 2011.

PORTAGES TO DO: P850, P155, P195, P160, P80, P200, P300, P40, P75

The nights were cool, with temperatures around +7c. I had to get a jacket on during the night. I only had a plus 10c sleeping bag and no pad with my hammock. I still slept great though.

I was up around 7am. It was a perfect day, with a slight tail wind to help me along to Burntroot Lake.

Two loons greet me as I was loading up my canoe to start the day.

At the end of Misty on the Portage to Petawawa River, a old saw blade from the lumbering days.

Algonquin Park typical rock action on the Petawawa River.

By noon I was at the ranger cabin on White Trout Lake. I had lunch and went for a swim off the dock. No one was around on White Trout, not one site taken! I knew of the fresh water spring beside the cabin and filled my water containers. Nice, sweet cool water!

I stopped at the narrows between White Trout and Big Trout. Here's looking towards B.T.

The landing on Longer Lake ... It is a long lake to paddle!

My campsite on Burntroot Lake. I took a site on the eastern side midway up, on the second point. It was a nice site! I got there around 5:30pm.

Sunset on Burntroot Lake

My chicken-on-a-bun meal being cooked. I could not find a grill at all. I did find a long bolt and put this across the pit. I found some fresh beaver cut branches along the shore to make a grill. it worked great!


I was up until 10:00pm watching some star action and someone across the bay on Anchor Island trying to play the "signal game" with a flashlight with me. I finally gave in and gave a few flashes.


End of the night thoughts.

- This was a real nice relaxing day. I saw hardly anyone. No moose today.

- A little cooler today around 24c range.

- As I left my site on Misty, a canoe approached me and a man and older woman asked me if they could go on my site, which I told them I was leaving. There canoe loaded with thunder-boxes unassembled. Good to see sites are getting worked on. This was before 8am!




Day 3 - SATURDAY, AUG. 20, 2011

PORTAGES TO DO: P155,P390,P85,P425,P365

Morning overview:

- It was a really nice cool night for sleeping. I was not cold at all. But I did go to bed with a jacket on and wool hat. Loons woke me up a few times. But that is fine with me!

- Very strange weather with sun and storms...and wind on the way.

- Another relaxing day of tripping.

I left my campsite on Burnroot at 7:20am. I had a typical quick breakfast of oatmeal, small pita with peanut butter and coffee. Notice the clouds and waves? Well, this would be pretty much the typical weather from here on to the end, with many thunderstorms. SWEET! At least I still had a tail wind for much of the day.

Behind the campsite on the portage to Perley is a old root cellar from the logging days. It was very interesting to see. I like the campsite as well and would have camped here if I knew how nice it was....it is beside the portage and may get traffic though, if you don't mind.

Finally, there was a bull moose feeding on Perley, near the end of the lake. I stopped and got closer. i just sat still watching him eat for about 15 minutes and then left him in peace.

I happen to be taken some pictures when this fellow decided to land on my knee.

10:50am .. Raining hard here on the Petawawa River, before Catfish Rapids. Thunder is getting closer. Right after I took this picture I bottomed out in gravel. I got out to pull the canoe and I hit a rock and cursed. I looked up to see a bull moose bolt from the river bank. Must of been something I said?

On Catfish Lake's marsh .. still raining and the lightening was getting bad. It looked like an all-day affair and the bugs were bad on the portage. No way I could stay there and wait out the storm. I stopped at a campsite near the mouth of Catfish with marsh all around...crazy for anyone to camp there and get eaten by skeeters. I did not stay long and retreated back in my canoe in a hurry.

12.00 pm .. I stopped at the island campsite called by many "Shangrla" for lunch and rest. A very nice campsite but open with Red Pines. I had to go down to the northern side rock face to get out of the driving rain. I sat under a tree and had lunch. I could see Turtle Island that the natives use to worship.

By 1:00pm I was on the island with the 'alligator' used in the old lumber days. The steam-driven boat only had metal components to look at. Rangers have cleared some brush at the landing and around the area. All the portages in the area have been maintained recently and the campsites had raked fire-pit areas as well. Good work!

At the rapids on the P80m to Narrowbag Lake, there'a an old log-chute from logging still hanging in there barely. Boy, I wish I could have seen these back in the days still intact.

This is looking south from the campsite at the far end of Catfish Lake, near the portage. I was going to go into Narrowbag, but I spied a weedy campsite nearby when I checked out the portage. I decided to "hunker-down" there and battle the wind gusts. Someone was camped on the point on the left side of the picture. Notice my SPOT on the rock shore "checking in".

My campsite, while fighting the wind. The sun did come out for short periods. I went for a nice swim and laid in the sun while I could. Supper was rice and tuna. I went to bed just after dark. It was still windy and no stars came out. However, it was nice and warm.

Being solo when I carry, I do spend that little extra effort to be careful not to twist an ankle. As I carried over a board walk today, my left foot slipped off and landed on solid ground. My right knee collapsed and my butt hitting the plank. I was able to keep my canoe on my shoulders. If this had been a more elevated board walk, I would have fallen right over. Some board walks have bits of shingles nailed to them for traction....great idea!



Day 4 - SUNDAY, AUG. 21, 2011

PORTAGES TO DO: P80, P170, P2345, P300, P715

Morning overview:

- Nice warm night. No jacket needed last night.

- I got a late start again sleeping in till 6:30am, late for me anyways!

- I was looking forward for today as my buddy Sean Rowley and his boy Mackenzie were meeting me on Cedar Lake for one night. I met Sean thru another AA'er Markus awhile back during a fall trip to Tom Thompson.

- Another grey day with light winds at the moment. I hope they stay that way at least until I get to the East side of Cedar! I hate to be wind bound today.

On Narrowbag Lake after a short P80 at 7:45am.

Unicorn Hill portage .. this portage has a steep hill going up and up and up from Cedar Lake, going up toward Catfish Lake. It's tough, but I found that during the climb there is plateau that gives the old ticker a rest between climbs. I stopped at the top of the hill with a canoe rest supplied by junior rangers. I rested my shoulder blades for 3 minutes and continued the portage all downhill from here.





Water falls pictures from the Unicorn Hill portage to Cedar Lake. Very nice. I stopped for lunch beside some falls and loved the sound. My typical lunch is pre-packed everyday in zip lock bags which consists of granola bars, dried fruit and gorp.

On Cedar Lake at 11:00 am. Across the bay is the Brent Store. I wanted to see the store and meet Jake, who runs the store that I heard so much about. I was happy to have light winds and little wave action. But the weather was very unpredictable. I paddled across quickly before the wind picked up....which it finally did!

The store.


Sean and Mackenzie fishing off our Island campsite 2:30pm. (sorry for a bad picture!)

When I left the store, the wind was picking up and was hitting me at a head-cross angle. I was bouncing around a bit and stayed along the shore, making way to the large eastern island. We agreed to meet/camp here. Not the case. It was taken! I moved on to the next island campsite on our list. No one was there and no Sean. Was he on Cedar? He said later that day when he came by this site, that someone was still on it. So I stopped at this site to stretch my legs and look at the map and area to see where he might be.

I could see far away someone in a canoe with a red lifejacket .. real far away, near 2 little island campsites. Not sure, I decided to paddle halfway into the bay between the islands and the portage beside the Petawawa River. I stopped and could hear someone calling me. It was them indeed! I greeted Sean and Mac. I sure was happy to see them. I went to his site to set up camp, swim and relax while they fished .. with no luck.

Sean was very nice to cook supper for me. We had steaks, couscous with chocolate cookies and 'Joe's' for desert. Or were they called 'Wagon Wheels'?. Thank-you sir! It was great to have fresh meat indeed. We moved the tarp around to block the strong wind. Dark clouds were rolling in. Rain came in around 8:30 to 9:00pm and we decided to call it a night. Stronger rain came in later with Sean setting up another tarp over his tent.



Day 5 - Monday, AUG. 22, 2011

PORTAGES TO DO: P960, P685, P860, P3565, P1075

Morning overview:

- The morning was a windy one. I was up at 5:00am to get a early start and hope to beat the wind....but the wind was already winning.

- I was packed up and took a few pics before 7:00am.

- Sean and Mac came out of their tent to say good bye. They went back for a few more zzzzzzzzzz's before their turn to fight the wind and waves on Cedar Lake.

Launch side of the Island, calm until you past it!

Looking west towards the Brent Store .. with the waves building steam.

7:17am .. looking back towards our island.

An old railway bridge on the Petawawa River.

Holy cow! Got to portage up that?

A view from the bridge looking back towards Cedar Lake.

Entering Radiant Lake. What a beauty of a lake.

10:30am .. I stopped for an early lunch and pumped water for some long portages to come. I rested for a 1/2 hour and watched a few canoes move around. As I left towards the Madawaska River, an older couple came beside me in a motor boat to see my canoe. I stopped to chat with them. They said they used to get dropped off by train years ago to get to their cottage. Now, they can drive on the old railway but with permit to only using it for that purpose. They cannot even bike on it. I enjoyed our chat. I went under a few bridges that fed Radiant lake and heard some trucks go by...it sort of ticked me off with all the work it took me to get there. But that is part of the fun eh?

This guy had to be asked to move after 10 minutes. He was so kind to move on and got up on the portage and walked down the old railway road.

The creek to Philip Lake. This is the area where a bear was on the edge of the Madawaska River. It scared me and I scared him at the same time. He made some aggressive sorts of snorts and ran FAST! I just sat in my canoe quietly for sometime afterward, as the current pushed me backwards against a bank. It startled me for sure. My heart was racing. I listened for his retreat route. The bear was gone in no time.

Great, a head wind on Philip! I wanted the western site.

My campsite on Philip, with the canoe set up to help block the wind.

The fire-pit was near the water's edge, down from my hammock.

The view from my site, with clouds coming in with rain around 8:00pm.

I cooked up some 'Side-kicks' noodles and added some 'tuna-in-packets'. I brought my wood-gas stove for this trip. No fuel to bring. Just scavenge around the fire pit and where people cut wood for little bits of wood. I spent perhaps 10 minutes or so collecting fuel. After supper, I restocked the supply for the morning, to save time.

The night had some excitement for me. Around 8:30pm, I went into my hammock, to turn in early due to the rain. While reading, I heard some cracking of branches .. loud cracking. Then I heard really clear, a bear breathing. I froze! I stopped breathing. Holy crap! Another bear! Then a jet plane flies over drowning all sounds out. I am freaking now. My ears were trying to determine its location. I tried to look under my fly in my hammock but it was too low to see much. So after what seemed an hour, the jet plane noise was gone. I heard only some droplets hitting the fly from the trees. The rain was over.

I got out of my hammock, flashing my headlamp around the forest, looking for my fury guest. I saw nothing. I went down to the fire pit and lit up a fire. It was a beautiful night with the milky way visible. I spotted many satellites. I could not sleep now! I was thinking on what to do. Sleep by the fire? No! Leave the site in the night? No!

Funny things run through your mind when you are all by yourself and no one else is camped on the lake. I stayed up until midnight. I wandered up to my hammock, still looking for my friend. I drifted off to sleep finally. I think the bear got a scent of me and took off. I had kept a clean site and had my food hung up high.



Day 6 - Tuesday, AUG. 23, 2011

PORTAGES TO DO: P1495, P110, P215



Morning on Philip had broken clouds. I left my campsite before 8:00am. I could hear a road scraper grading a near by road. Not nice!

There were low water levels on Little Petawawa before the 1495 meter portage. At the mouth of the river from Phillip Lake, I came across a cow moose and her calf. I made too much noise trying to get my camera out and scared them off before I could get a shot.

10:30am. This Parks Bay/Hogan campsite was on a point on the north shore. I stopped here for a rest and decided which shore to follow to hide from the wind. It was pretty much all head winds!

Cliffs on Hogan Lake. I had fun in the waves trying to take a few pictures.

I took the campsite on the island with 2 campsites, facing the cliffs. I give this site a '10+'! There was no-one around until later in the afternoon, when I was woken-up from a much needed nap by a woman and man asking if my site was taken! YEAH! Of all the empty sites, they take the one closest on the main shore. So much for peace today! I could hear them until dark setting up camp and singing. The woman's singing was real good and made me feel lonely.


SORRY .. I picked up these little fellows in sandy shallows while getting firewood. Think I could find my salt I packed for leeches? Nope....I had to use a lighter to burn them off. I found the salt later, while unpacking at home after the trip. Go figure!

There were waves on the west side and this sweet little pebble beach shoreline.

I love this campsite. Here's a shot of the fire pit.

Hogan Lake sunset.

Here's my campfire on Hogan Lake. I had a 'Mountain House' freeze-dried meal of chili. It tasted pretty good. And. it was filling too!




Day 7 - Wednesday, AUG. 24, 2011

PORTAGES TO DO: P685, P2590




It was a warmish overcast morning, here at 8:45am on the P685 to La Muir. I got off Hogan Lake before the wind got worse. It was another cloudy day with rain on and off. The wind was picking up already.

A board-walk/dock on Muddy Lake. This lake is a swallow pond more-or-less, off Lake La Muir. I found it really hard to paddle 'swallow-water' as it caused turbulence under the canoe, slowing it down.

On La Muir's east campsite, I took a break to figure out what side of La Muir to travel on. Nice waves! The campsite at this location looked sad with many tree blow down throughout. A STRONG southwest wind was kicking up!

P2590 to Big Trout. I talked to about six people on the portage .. telling me how bad B.T was and they had a tail wind! It never surprises me amount of "stuff" people haul on portages. A cooler .. on a long portage like this? It was raining during the portage and for once I was happy to have the canoe over my head to protect me. The portage was very muddy and slippery. I single-carried over, taking 41 minites.

On Big Trout Lake. Others gear for a second carry over the portage. The lake does not look bad here, but here in the bay it was sheltered. I spent 15 minutes looking for the spring. I grabbed my emptied water flasks and walked up the trail looking for signs of it. But no luck. Has anyone taken water from it?

Heading across Big Trout. I wasted no time paddling hard to the large Island before the narrows to White Trout before I could relax.

I grabbed the island campsite, across the bay from the Ranger Cabin. I was tired at this point and could not go much farther. The wind gust were brutally strong at times. I was standing still by the cliffs trying to round the bend. Brutal! The stairs are fairly new I think. See how open it is on top? I went down to the left of this shot, out of the wind. Great campsite with tons of room to pitch a tent. I was out of the wind until a storm front came in and the wind changed directions on me!

My camp out of the western wind until dusk, when a storm slammed me hard from the north! I didn't see that coming!

While setting up my camp, I heard some canoes land near the stairs over the rock face I was tucked behind. No one could see my camp. I went over and saw two canoes. They saw me right away and apologized. They were going to leave. A father and his trhee sons .. ages 15, 17 and 18. The man looked disappointed and I got a quick good feeling by saying, "You're more than welcome to stay here, as its a large campsite and I'm tucked away from the main area".

Well, the man thanked me and was happy not to have to go back out into the rough water. Other sites were already snapped up and they would have had to paddle down to Grassy Bay for a site.

I went back to setting up my site and let them be for a hour or so. I went for a swim and treated my open blisters on my feet. My feet were in bad shape and I was running out of duct tape. Haha!

Around 5pm I went back up to the fire pit area as they were making pizza and soup for supper. I greeted each of them and we chit-chatted a bit. They were on a ten-day trip coming from the Tim River through Shippagew. The man mentioned a dead bull moose, half eaten in the Tim River. They'd also seen a cow moose fall right over in the water, trying to get out of the river. I was offered some supper but declined and asked them if I cook my supper up with them. No problem. I think they enjoyed swapping their stories, as I did mine.

The thunder was threatening our supper and we hurried up before the rain came in. They set up a large tarp over their gear and heated-up some water for hot drinks, which they offered me .. a cranberry drink. Thank-you! We sat around the small fire watching the storm come in.


At 5:00pm .. the storm coming in.

The storm almost on us. The storm hit hard from the north. I was hiding under my neighbor’s tarp. When the rain slowed, down I went down to my north shore campsite and all was fine. A river developed under my hammock, racing down from the upper fire pit area. Glad I wasn't in a tent! I returned back to see my neighbors and the boys were off to bed. I wished them the best, as I would most likely not see them in the morning. I intended to be gone by 6:00am. At least the night was warm and no jacket was needed in my skimpy sleeping bag. When I got in my hammock, the rain started hard again and wind came back rocking me about. I was dry and didn't mind the storm until I heard a few tress cracking and falling down! All was fine near me though.




Day 8 - Thursday, AUG. 25, 2011

PORTAGES TO DO: P745, P510, P405, P845, P1030, P430, P590, P440, P450, P550, P310




I was on the water by 6:25am. It was a bit dark. I packed-up in the rain. I boiled no water for coffee that morning. I fueled up with my last few pita breads and peanut butter.

The sign on Grassy Bay showing which way to go .. McIntosh Lake or Petawawa River. I was taking the McIntosh Lake way out, going through Timberwolf, Misty Lake and back down to the P1030 to Muslim, Wenona, Bandit, Moccasin, Juan,Jubilee, Sawyer and Rain Lakes. I had a long day ahead and hoping the weather would break.

Looking back on Grassy Bay. Rain is more a mist at times.

The clouds breaking up.

Leading into McIntosh, I found this area was weed chocked and I questioned my whereabouts a few times. Up ahead was a beaver dam to lift over.

Portage to McIntosh. On McIntosh Lake I spotted some campers Others were on the move.

There were slippery board walks on the portage. It was a pretty forest with lots of moss.


Here's a mucky dock landing on the creek.

Back on Misty once again, it was only a short paddle along the shore to the portage to Muslim Lake.

Lunch break and time to pump some water on Wenona campsite.


12:25pm .. No one here this time around. I sat by the waters edge and relaxed for a short half-hour. The sun came out occasionally. I came across other trippers on the portages from Bandit to the access. I asked several what the weather forecast was calling for. All said rain and storms. I felt better leaving a few days earlier then planned. I passed some kids camped on the south side of Moccasin and it looked like they had every bit of clothing hanging up to dry. They were sitting around a fire with there heads down looking worn out and ticked at the wetness of the last few days. More ran coming kids!

3:10pm .. I was loaded up and started the Rain Lake paddle. I paddled hard, seeing how fast I could cover the lake. I like to challenge myself at times. Many campers where headed towards the island. The park plane was circling the bay around the island about 5 times that I saw. I passed some more young families. All asking me about the island campsite .. whether it was taken or not. It must be a hot spot or they want security thinking no bears? They swim! In one family, the father was wearing a pirate hate and talking like one to the kids. Strange I thought. Another canoe was loaded with coolers and a large dog. It was like the '400' highway! Many could not keep their canoe in a straight line as they tried to move down the river.

4:00pm .. I was at the Rain Lake access docks after 50 minutes flat. Much better then I hoped for. As I unloaded my canoe another group were ready to leave and getting instructed how to paddle and portage properly. You have to start learning at some point.

Wildlife

- 6 moose in total.
- 2 bear encounters in one day. One quick glance on the river and one that came into camp at night but not seen.
- Only one slap-happy beaver scaring the crap out of me.
- Loons-a-plenty.
- One large fox snake slithering by on my foot during a marshy portage!
- Many birds of prey.
- Lots of small fish and minnows in the rivers.
- Many frogs and large ones! This is good news.
- Bats on Hogan and Philip at dusk. I like them. They eat those darn mosquitoes.

Lack of

- Saw no mice. Strange I thought.
- Only saw one red squirrel at White Trout Lake.
- Do not remember seeing any chipmunks.
- Bugs .. not many really. Only attacked on portages leading to Catfish by skeeters.
- Only a few deer and stable flies.

My trip overall was fun even though I cut it short a few days due to weather. I was happy to cover new areas of the park. Hope you enjoy my trip report.

Thanks to Barry for posting this trip log on his web site.

And, thanks to Jeffrey McMurtrie for his maps and the great work he has put in making them. Great to use.

Mike Burns.


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