Starting Out From Access Point 14  -  Part 1 of 1, 2 and 3            by: Michael Cowley

I must confess, I have NOT done a full trip from Access Point 14 into Algonquin Park. But having just purchased a vacant lot on Livingstone Lake, with access to the Park very much in mind, I have been searching for someone to tell me just how tough the "Golden Staircase" portage between Kimball and Rockaway Lakes actually is. This summer (2001) I intend to find out first hand with a trip from my property into the park. Until then...

For whatever use it may be to someone, and hoping it may stimulate a reader to enter their own account of this route, I will write a little about this access point from my experience so far.

It is a beautiful drive of 20 minutes from Dorset along Rt 8 and 12. The Park permits are obtained at Tower Hill Marina on 35 just before you take the turn onto Rt. 8. The roadway in is rough, check your tiedowns at the Marina when you get your permits.

Topo Map of area including "Golden Staircase Portage"

Just as you begin the last descent before coming to Livingstone Lake on the left side of the road way there is a well-loved spring where good fresh water is available for you to fill up your water bottles and jugs. This water had been tested yearly and the test results used to be posted by locals to affirm it purity. However, since the Walkerton crisis, the municipality has posted a big sign saying it is surface water and they make no claim as to its purity. Neither do I, except to say that our family and all the locals can be seen regularly filling up there. The water is the same this year as last, and previous years, only the municipalities and their insurance policies have changed.

After your water fill-up, go another kilometer to the Livingstone Lake Lodge. You can check in with the owner about where to launch and stock-up on some last minute goodies, before being on your way. This is a much more secure site to leave your car and provides a much more user-friendly launch than the public access point further up the lake.

Just this past "May 24" week-end we'd arrived at the public access point to unload and paddle to our property and found that the whole parking-unloading area was being used as a road-side car-camp site by a young family, two large dogs,several cars and tents, much beer and loud music. Upon inquiring I was told by the woman that her husband has been camping there at the public access point on the long weekend for years. We parked up on the road side.

Livingston Lake eastern shore cliffs

This lake has a number of cottages on it and a beautiful cliff face on the eastern shore. That shore is primarily Crown land. Skirting the north west shore you can come to the marshy area where Livingstone River enters the Lake. I have not seen moose there, but others have. The west shore (from which the above picture was taken) is known for good bass fishing, but is private land all the way to the dam at the far southern end.

Cliffs At sunset

The portage on the far south side is just to the right (west) of the small dam. It is a broad sandy beach, easy on the skins. Keep to the left as you traverse down the portage/road as the portage spilts off from the road after about 40m. My first time, I took the road the whole way and was delighted to see the nice set of docks provided for easy access onto Bear Lake... Ooops. Those are private property I discovered upon pushing off and sighting the Bear Lake end of the portage where it meets the water 50 m. to the east of the private docks. Bear Lake also has some beautiful cliffs on the North East arm of the lake, off the route leading to the south and the portage to Kimball Lake.

My first trip to these cliffs was late April, and I ascended to the sheer face with my two pre-teens for a lovely diversion.

Bear Lake Cliffs

Bear Lake Cliffs

There is a rope swing (on Crown land) out over the rapids where Hinderland Creek flows in. We paddled down to the south end of Bear Lake, under the bridge, and into where Bear Lake opens into Kawagama Lake. Then we turned around and headed back to Livingstone Lake.

North from Livingstone Lake Dam near Portage to Bear.

I’ll report on the Golden Staircase after I actually get that far. But I'd would love to hear from campers who've actually done this route.

Text and photos by: Michael Cowley ... with Emily and Jeremy reporting from Access Point 14.

 Continue to Part 2 or jump ahead to Part 3.